Microneedling can be painful, so about an hour prior to the procedure, a topical anesthetic cream will be applied to the target area.

Once you’re numb, your skin is cleansed and dried. Then, based on what issue you’re trying to treat, an active serum is applied—for instance, salicylic acid for acne or vitamin C for pigmentation.

The original microneedling device, a dermal roller that would be rolled over the skin, has mostly been replaced in doctor’s offices by automated devices that contain single-use, sterile needle cartridges with a varying number of needles—anywhere from a dozen to more than 160, depending on the device.

The spring-loaded devices—sometimes a Dermapen, though a number of variations exist—are employed, using a stamp-like motion across the skin.

Microneedling techniques vary; most devices have an adjustable needle head that customizes the depth of the needle pricks.

Instead of altering the depth based on the area they’re treating, other doctors just use less pressure or fewer passes—anywhere from two to six passes per area.

Post-treatment, a customized serum and cooling mask are applied to help calm down the skin, and some doctors expose patients to red LED lights, to speed healing.